We’ve been fortunate to get to take the kids to Glacier National Park many times in several seasons. Due to forest fires and weather, we’ve visited when most of the Park was closed and we’ve been when everything is open. Either way, we always have a great time on the eastern side of Glacier National Park in particular. Whether there’s something preventing you from accessing Logan Pass or Polebridge, or if you’re just planning to be based on the east side of Glacier NP, we’ve got lots of suggestions for hikes.
It’s amazing how different Glacier National Park is from Yellowstone National Park. The sights are, of course, different, but so are the people it attracts, the mood of the Park and the experiences the Park offers. Glacier National Park, and specifically the east side, really has climbed our list of favorite places in the Rockies and one of the best wildlife destinations in the USA. If you have any questions about visiting Glacier or need detailed recommendations about things to do in Glacier National Park, please leave a comment or send us a note!
Areas on the East Side of Glacier National Park
The east side of Glacier National Park is a really beautiful area. The Rocky Mountains rise up from the edge of the Great Plains and it’s super dramatic. On the West Glacier side, you get some mountain views as you approach, but due to the hills and trees, it’s quite limited. On the east side, you are surrounded by cattle range and have astounding, unobstructed mountain views around every corner. With five different access point to Glacier National Park on the eastern side, there are all kinds of great sights and hikes to enjoy.
First time visitors to Glacier National Park tend to visit West Glacier, Logan Pass and maybe the St Mary area. There’s much more to the park than these spots though! The east side of Glacier NP is all about the lakes and wildlife, so get our your notepad and get ready to make a list of everything you want to do and see in Glacier!
Note: the west side is busier most of the year, including fall when not much else is open. The west side is also where you’ll find things like bike rentals, rafting on the Flathead River and comprehensive Glacier travel companies, like Glacier Guides Montana Raft (whom we love and do our adventures with).
Exploring the Many Glacier Area
The sights and wildlife of the Many Glacier area are my top pick for the park. My favorite hike is here, and the most consistent wildlife sightings for us happen here. Many Glacier is the last major entrance on the east side of Glacier National Park before you get to the Canadian border. The road is partially paved and is a pain to drive in the rain, but it’s worth it! There is a National Park entrance sign here with ample space to pull over for a photo too.
Where to Stay at Many Glacier
While we don’t camp half as much as we used to, Many Glacier is one place that we’ve camped at multiple times. You can reserve a campsite in advance, and sometime you can get really lucky and get a first-come-first-serve spot… but don’t count on it. In the park there are two more options here at Many Glacier, but they’ll cost ya and you’ll need to book them far in advance.
The Many Glacier Hotel and the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn are both in the Many Glacier area, and are two of the nifty vintage stays on the east side of Glacier National Park. Both of these properties tend to book out fully a year in advance, but if you can plan your travels that far out, you may score a cool stay. Keep in mind that we’re still talking about rustic accommodations, even with some updates, so keep your expectations realistic.
Find other lodging near Many Glacier here
Easy Plan for Many Glacier
The simple highlights of the Many Glacier area include the famous Many Glacier Hotel (bad food but great lobby and deck), Swiftcurrent Lake and the boat tour, and then the easy walks around the aforementioned lake or to Fishercap Lake. If you need to take it easy and want to visit this part of the east side of Glacier National Park, there’s your plan. Enjoying a few short walks, the boat tour and relaxing at the beautiful vintage lodge can easily take 6+ hours of your day.
Active Plan for Many Glacier
We are big into hiking, both easy and difficult hikes, so Many Glacier is THE spot for the whole gamut when you’re on the east side of Glacier National Park. If you want to what are arguably two of the best hikes in Glacier NP, you’ll need to dedicate two days to this area. If you want to get the full Many Glacier experience, you’ll need three days. Here are out top picks for hikes and sights for an active, comprehensive visit to Many Glacier:
- Bullhead Lake via Fishercap Lake and Red Rock Falls – fairly easy, but takes a while – great for wildlife; this continues onto Swiftcurrent Pass.
- Iceberg Lake via Ptarmigan Falls – my FAVORITE hike in Glacier National Park – epic sight with bergs in the lake
- Ptarmigan Tunnel via Iceberg Lake – hike to the lake first, then double back to take the spur trail to the Tunnel; very difficult but astounding
- Grinnell Lake and Glacier – one of the most famous hikes in Glacier National Park, it also is a busy trail but it’s worth it
- Cracker Lake – so beautiful, less busy than Swiftcurrent Pass or Grinnell Glacier
Add relaxing activities to these long hikes for the best experience. If you can enjoy a boat tour or kayaking in Glacier National Park early in the day, you’ll get a full, unforgettable experience here.
St Mary Lake and Rising Sun Area
The St Mary Lake area on the east side of Glacier National Park is almost always open. I’ve never seen it closed for weather or fires (not to say that can’t happen). The views along St Mary Lake before ascending up Going to the Sun Road are some of the most picturesque, postcard views you’ll get here. There’s an entrance sign here just before the visitor center, so be sure to snap a pic with it and then go into the visitor center to get the scoop on what’s happening in the St Mary and Rising Sun areas.
Rising sun is the area midway along St Mary Lake. Here you’ll find a campground, cabins (Rising Sun Motor Inn), general store, restaurant and boat launch. This is also one of the best places to see bear on the east side of Glacier National Park.
Where to Stay at St Mary or Rising Sun
There are two campgrounds in this part of Glacier National Park. The St Mary campground CAN be reserved and the Rising Sun campground cannot be (first come first serve). I like the St Mary Campground and have stayed there three times, but Rising Sun is nice too (stayed there once) and is more sheltered than the other.
Within the park there is the Rising Sun Motor Inn (similar to the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn) and that’s it. There are lots of options just outside the park boundary in St Mary, so depending on your budget and availability, you may find a good option just beyond the edge of the park.
Easy Plan for St Mary / Rising Sun
If you are just looking for some wonderful sightseeing and enjoying the St Mary portion of the east side of Glacier National Park, we have a great, easy plan that gets you the epic views and maybe even some beautiful wildlife. First, start the day with an easy nature walk just above St Mary Lake on the 1913 Ranger Station trail, which is really extra beautiful when the fall colors are at their peak. After that do a Glacier Park Boat tour on the lake, stopping at Baring Falls and seeing some of the best mountain views in the park. Afterward, have lunch at the Two Dog Flats Grill and then stop at Sunrift Gorge, Jackson Glacier Overlook and any other points of interest. At sunset, hang out at Two Dog Flats by the lake and watch for wildlife. We’ve seen fox, bear, dear and moose here at sunset over the years.
Active Plan for St Mary / Rising Sun
Ooh!!! There’s so much fun to be had in the Rising Sun and St Mary area of the park. I love the hikes along St Mary Lake and to the many waterfalls. For a very active day or two around St Mary Lake on the east side of Glacier National Park, here are our top picks for hikes:
- St Mary Falls to Virginia Falls – the initial hike to St Mary Falls is fairly easy, but then you add Virginia Falls and it’s more intense.
- Otokomi Lake – a wonderful hike with some steep areas, but very worth the hike
- Gunsight Pass – even if you don’t want to go all the way, the hike and climb are beautiful
One of the other things to consider when you’re hiking here in the St Mary / Rising Sun area is that many of the epic hikes from other parts of the park can either start or end here. If you’re into lengthy hikes that are really challenging, you can take your pick to cross the mountains to Many Glacier, Two Medicine or the west side. These hikes take planning and coordination, so if you’re really interested, do the research and book your transfers to have the best and safest experience.
Two Medicine and East Glacier
I feel like first time visitors to Glacier National Park might not fully understand how awesome Two Medicine is, and they might not even try to put it on their Glacier National Park itinerary. It’s pretty incredible, with the mountains dipping down into the lakes. I love it. Two Medicine is a simple, windy road from the St Mary area, so it’s just around 40 minutes from where most people end their Glacier adventure.
East Glacier is the town just south of Two Medicine. Here you’ll find the Glacier Park Lodge, some wonderful Blackfeet Nation art, some restaurants and independent lodging options. You can also get off the train here, as the Amtrak Empire Builder stops at the East Glacier station (no rental car options here though). This area is a bit more dry than the West Glacier region due to the rain shadow effect, but still gets quickly changing weather. Two Medicine is the gem of the east side of Glacier National Park for many reasons, especially the wildlife. And waterfalls…
Where to Stay at Two Medicine or East Glacier
The obvious choices for where to stay at Two Medicine or East Glacier are either camping at Two Medicine Campground or staying at the Glacier Park Lodge, but there are more choices. I personally loved the Glacier Park Lodge, and although it is difficult to get a room and it’ll cost you a pretty penny, it’s worth the experience for the relaxation and vintage elements. We had a wonderful time (and great food!). I also really enjoy camping at Two Medicine. Here’s the thing though: camping at Two Medicine is camping WITH the wildlife. The bighorn sheep, bears, fox and moose are continually going through the campground and you MUST be cautious and smart.
For staying outside the park, there are some small inns and lodges in East Glacier. They mostly operate mid-June through Labor Day, but there are plenty of vacation rentals and cabins all around town. Luxury isn’t the vibe of East Glacier, but rustic and subtle certainly are.
Easy Plan to Visit Two Medicine
Two Medicine is a really cool spot. I remember visiting as a kid during terrible weather and sitting in the Two Medicine General Store while the fire roared, waiting for the weather to break. Now, the same General Store doesn’t have a fire going all the time, but it’s still a good place to grab snacks and souvenirs.
For an easy visit to Two Medicine on the east side of Glacier NP, start with popping into the store to grab what you need and hear where the wildlife is hanging out. Then head out for an easy walk along the shore of Two Medicine Lake, keeping an eye out for all manner or wildlife. From there, do the Glacier Park Boat tour on the vintage watercraft (takes an hour or so) to get a different view of the mountains and hear all about the history of Two Medicine. After your boat tour do the easy hike to either Aster Falls (we saw ten moose on this trail once!) or Appistoki Falls (lots of bighorn sheep).
End your Two Medicine visit with the nature trail to Running Eagle Falls near the entrance. This is one of the most unusual waterfalls we’ve ever seen. It’s called “trick falls” because it enters the hillside from above and then goes though the rock and is visible, coming out in different areas. It’s kind of like the Sinks in Lander, Wyoming.
Active Plan for Experiencing Two Medicine
How ambitious are you feeling? Hiking at Two Medicine is so wonderful, both because of the epic mountain views that don’t stop and because of the concentration of wildlife. Before heading out on any lengthy hike, be sure you’re set up with bear spray, the appropriate food storage (even for day hikes) and that you’ve got your observant eyes on.
The best longer hikes to do at Two Medicine on the east side of Glacier National Park are Old Man Lake, Upper Two Medicine Lake and Cobalt Lake. Each of them is a workout but the payoff is beautiful and they are all day hikes. If you want to mix it up, you can actually take the boat to the end of Two Medicine Lake, hike to Twin falls, and then continue onto either Upper Two Medicine Lake or No Name Lake and then back along Two Medicine Lake to the parking area and General Store.
There are lots of ways to enjoy Two Medicine. It’s beautiful and quiet, and even in the busiest time of year (summer peak) it’s still spacious enough with enough trail options that you’ll have a peaceful, beautiful visit.
Obscure Glacier NP: Cut Bank, Belly River and Goat Haunt
These three areas on the east side of Glacier National Park are quite obscure and most people will neither visit them or ever want to. If you get a full week or more at Glacier, making plans to visit one of these sites and do one of the epic hikes would be very admirable and you’d have a very niche story to share at hiker parties, as these areas on the east side of Glacier NP are so rarely talked about. Goat Haunt is the most interesting to visit…
Cut Bank Campground and Trailhead
Cut Bank is the easiest to access, between St Mary and Two Medicine. It has a first come first serve campground that is quiet, and beautifully set, but in peak summer you may not be able to just waltz in a score a campsite. If you can’t get a campsite but still want to visit, there are a few beautiful hikes you can do from here, either day hikes (out and back) or you can start a backpacking trip here.
- Medicine Grizzly Lake – 13 miles
- Triple Divide Pass – 14.3 miles
- Red Eagle Lake / Pitamaken Pass – backpacking for 31 miles
- Morning Star Lake – 14 miles
Each of these trails is difficult, both for their length and elevation gain. They take planning, but if you’re an avid hiker why not enjoy some of the least trekked trails on the east side of Glacier National Park? I can’t wait to do Red Eagle Lake myself (still haven’t gotten to!).
Belly River and Goat Haunt
Just before the border crossing into Canada is the Belly River entrance for Glacier National Park. It’s a parking area for a trailhead and all access into the park from here is on foot. If you want to experience this part of Glacier, you’ll need to plan a day hike in and back NOT all the way to Goat Haunt, or get your backcountry permits and be well supplied for the epic challenge ahead. Hiking from the Belly River area past Chief Mountain is beautiful, and you’ll not likely encounter too many people, but for sure there will be wildlife!
Hiking dream for me: Belly River to Ptarmigan Tunnel and down into Many Glacier. I have done half of this hike and really want to do the full thing. As soon as I do I’ll write all about it!
If Goat Haunt is your goal, as it’s so remote, you’ve got four options for getting there:
- hike to Goat Haunt from Belly River, 28 miles and requires supplies and permits
- hike to Goat Haunt from Kintla Lake, 31 miles with planning, starts on west side in North Fork
- hike along Upper Waterton Lake in Alberta, Canada and report your border crossing via the CBP ROAM app, 8.5 miles from Waterton and the Prince of Wales Hotel
- take the boat from Waterton townsite in Alberta, Canada for a short visit OR clear customs in advance to do one of the epic hikes
Why visit Goat Haunt? In addition to it being so unique, there are also some really cool hikes that not many people get to do. From the Goat Haunt ranger station, you’ve got these beautiful hiking options:
- Rainbow Falls – 1 miles
- Goat Haunt Overlook – 1 mile
- Kootenai Lakes – 2.5 miles
- Lake Janet – 3.3 miles
- Lake Francis – 6.2 miles
Keep in mind, if there is a point where you go between the USA and Canada and touch land for hiking, you need to have a valid passport to present. If you’ve simply on the boat tour from Waterton and not hiking, you’re fine without, but confirm your plans and have your passport with you otherwise.
Planning for Visiting East Glacier NP
Now that you know how incredible the east side of Glacier is, here’s the scoop on planning your time. In each section above we’ve outlines places to stay, from camping to lodges, but if you need everything in one simple spot, you’ll find that below. Also, there are a few other considerations before you show up to Glacier National Park in peak season, so be sure that you’re prepared for any eventuality so you can have the best trip.
National Park Lodges and Hotels on the East Side of Glacier NP
Okay, so these are the tried and true lodge / inn / hotel options on the east side of Glacier National Park. If you’re looking to visit at the start of summer, meaning end of May or first week of June, you may have luck getting a reservation at the properties that have already opened. The first to open each season are the:
Also keep in mind that the Belton Chalet in West Glacier opens early, so you may have great luck securing a room here. We LOVE the Belton Chalet!
By the second week of June, the rest of the inns and independent operators are open. The campgrounds also open in waves. Within the park, the following open in mid-June:
Tips for finding a reservation at one of the popular, vintage Glacier National Park lodges include booking one or two nights, not more than two at the same property, as booking windows are small. Also, look for the first two weeks a property is open and the LAST week before it closes for the winter, as these are likely to have some availability within a month or two of the date. Lastly, be open to unique room setups, as the vintage properties feature smaller beds and strange combinations of bed sizes sometimes.
Adjusting plans due to forest fires and storms
This is the story of how we started our 2015 Glacier National Park vacation and not losing hope when it seems like you’re going to have to go home. It was family travel at it’s finest. We had big plans on this trip and they all got squished when the Reynolds Creek fire swept through the park. We adjusted our plans and were quick on our feet. This hopefully won’t happen for you, but if it does, it’s good to know what your options are.
If there are forest fires or bad storms that cause or create potential for landslides, you’ll need to change your plans… and so will everyone else. Be ready to be successful in this by knowing your options. If Going to the Sun Road closes for unexpected reasons, it just means that you’ll have to drive around to West Glacier if you’re planning something on that side. If part of your plans involve camping in a part of the park that gets closed, be armed with the information of the other first-come-first-serve campgrounds, including ones outside of the park (like the KOA in West Glacier or Chewing Blackbones in St Mary).
Here are the first-come-first-serve campgrounds:
- Cut Bank (east side)
- Bowman Lake (northwest)
- Kintla Lake (northwest)
- Rising Sun (east side)
Also, some reservation campground may release sites each day, so you can also check those. The reservation campgrounds in Glacier National Park are:
- Apgar (west at Lake McDonald)
- Avalanche (west at Lake McDonald)
- Fish Creek (west at Lake McDonald)
- Many Glacier (northeast)
- St Mary (east side)
- Sprague Creek (west at Lake McDonald, closes in emergencies)
- Two Medicine (east side)
Boat Tours in Glacier National Park
Boating in the mountains is a surprise and delight, particularly when you find it in Glacier National Park. Check out what to expect, where to do your boat tour and just how cool of an option it is with kids. We’ve done them all and enjoy each for different reasons. When you’re planning your visit to the east side of Glacier National Park, it’s worth it to get your boat tour reservations in advance. Yes, you’ll likely be able to get same day tickets at the beginning or end of the season, but during peak season (end of June – Sept) you may be boatless on the shore.
The Two Medicine boat tour is short at 45 minutes or so, and can be enjoyed as just a tour or as transport to hiking trails at the end of Two Medicine Lake. The St Mary Lake boat tour is about 90 minutes and goes all the way to the west end of the lake, stopping at Baring Falls for a short waterfall visit (this is my favorite tour). The Many Glacier boat tour actually does two lakes: Swiftcurrent and Josephine. You start on one and then do an easy nature walk in the woods to the other. I love it and it’s a great tour with kids.
Clearly the east side of Glacier National Park is my favorite. If you still have any questions we haven’t answered here, please leave a comment or send us a note. We are happy to share more and help YOU plan an incredible visit to Glacier National Park!
