Southeast Alaska is absolutely beautiful. A lot of people know it as the “Inside Passage” and visit via a cruise ship, but you can actually explore it on your own and have an unforgettable experience. Millions of visitors see the destinations of SE AK just for a few hours and miss out on so many of the amazing things to do. On your own, traveling between the different towns and islands via ferry service or airplanes, it’s a truly unique sort of vacation. A Southeast Alaska trip is incredible and you’ll be the envy of all your friends when you start to tell them your stories.
But how do you put together a trip like this? You’re right, there are lots of logistics and so many things to do when you’re putting together a Southeast Alaska itinerary, but we can help. Want to know about our itinerary from an incredible 11 day trip we did with kids? I’m so glad you asked because we have an awesome plan for you that can be adjusted for your available time, interests and budget. If you have any questions about our Southeast Alaska trip plan or need additional recommendations, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to share more and help you plan a great Alaskan adventure!
Why Skip the Cruise Ship for Southeast Alaska?
Alaska cruises are pretty epic and people do love them, but really it’s a lot of people all together all the time disembarking into the same ports all together… If you want to visit Southeast Alaska and not be surrounded by a few thousand of your closest friends continually, independent travel through the Inside Passage or a small ship sailing (like UnCruise or the Boat Company) is the way to go.
When you travel on your own instead of a cruise ship, you have the flexibility to linger, hike longer, eat locally and not be rushed back to the boat for your departure from port. Traveling independently also makes it easier to support local businesses in Southeast Alaska versus immediately stepping off the ship into cruise-line-owned shops and restaurants. Traveling slower and getting a good feel for the towns of the Inside Passage is such a bonus to traveling on your own instead of a cruise.
I will say though, Southeast Alaska is not a cheap destination in the summer. While you can do it on a budget, and even come out spending less than if you have a balcony state room on a cruise ship, there are some cruise deals that may cost less per day than when you’re traveling on your own. When it comes to costs, it really does boil down to where you see the most worthwhile spending for experiences and accommodations.
Getting to Southeast Alaska & Getting Around
It’s not actually that difficult to get to Southeast Alaska thanks to numerous flights from Seattle and Anchorage daily. This is for sure the fastest way to get here to start a Southeast Alaska vacation on your own, but it’s not the only option. Instead of a cruise ship to see the Inside Passage, consider the Alaska Marine Highway, independent transportation options like boats and seaplanes, and even driving (for part).
The Alaska Marine Highway
Traveling on the Alaska Marine Highway System is a unique way to experience the Inside Passage and explore many of the ports of Southeast Alaska. You can either walk on or drive on, with there being a significant cost difference between them. The most basic route to travel through the Inside Passage starts in Washington State: Bellingham → Ketchikan → Wrangell → Petersburg → Juneau → Haines → Skagway
When it comes to booking the Alaska Marine Highway System reservations are strongly recommended in summer, especially for travelers with a vehicle or wanting a cabin. Sleeping options onboard include private cabins/berths which must be reserved, and travelers can also sleep in tents and sleeping bags in public areas, including lounges and outdoor solariums. It’s kind of cool and also weird.
Alternative: Alaska Fjordlines between Juneau and Haines/Skagway
While it doesn’t cover the whole of Southeast Alaska, Alaska Fjordlines travels between Juneau and Haines, and then onto Skagway. I love Alaska Fjordlines! It’s one part transportation and one part whale watching. Being a small boat with the intent of enjoying the ride through this part of the Inside Passage, Alaska Fjordlines takes its time going between the ports, stopping to see whales and seals along the way, cruising the coastline so you can see waterfalls, and narrating about the lighthouses and landscapes as you go.
If you have the opportunity to ride Alaska Fjordlines between Juneau and Haines, do it! You’ll love it and it’s a great switch up to the size and vibes of the Alaska Marine Highway.
Southeast Alaska Things to Do: the Itinerary
Now that you understand how to get to Southeast Alaska and that the Inside Passage can be amazing to experience independently, not on a cruise ship, it’s time to see all the fun things to do, many of which aren’t offered as cruise ship excursions. Having the freedom to explore where you want and not be restricted to times opens a whole world of fun for visiting SE AK on your own.
Ketchikan: Southeast Alaska’s First Stop
It’s referred to as “Alaska’s First City” even though it’s neither the oldest Western settlement nor the oldest Alaska Native village. Ketchikan is called the First City because when you’re visiting Southeast AK and traveling the Inside Passage, it’s the first stop. And I might even say that it’s the most underrated. You hear about Ketchikan from people who stopped for a few hours when their cruise made port for a bit, but you’ll see that there are so many things to do in Ketchikan that you’ll be glad you’re giving yourself a few days.
You can get to Ketchikan either via the Alaska Marine Highway or flying in directly from Seattle or via Juneau. Ketchikan’s airport (KTN) is on an island across from the main city area, so you’ll actually have to take a five minute ferry ride once you land to get over to town. Once you’re in town, everything in Ketchikan proper is walking distance (suggestions below). There are some sites you’ll want to visit both north and south of town, but if you’re visiting without a vehicle, there are options to get around, both in the form of guided tours and public transportation (yes, they have a bus system!)
Download our Ketchikan coloring pages here!
Best Things to do in Ketchikan
So, what are you going to do in Ketchikan since you have the freedom of traveling independently instead of on a cruise ship schedule? Here are our top picks which will take three days or so to cover. Again, if you don’t want to have a vehicle, you can easily get around Ketchikan via bus, taxi, or lodging shuttle.
- Totem poles and Tlingit culture – visit Totem Bight State Park, Saxman Village, Tongass Historical Museum and the Totem Heritage Center
- Creek Street – it’s the historic red-light district turned boardwalk and it’s full of shops and restaurants, as well as the salmon ladder
- Downtown fun – the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center and the waterfront
- Wildlife adventure of some sort – Ketchikan Kayak Co does really cool paddling and wildlife tours, and Kawanti Adventures Black Bear experiences has boardwalks and wildlife in the rainforest. So cool!
- Misty Fiords National Monument for kayaking and flightseeing, or via boat tour for wildlife, waterfalls and epic fjord views
- Salmon fishing charter – this is something you’ll be able to do all through the Inside Passage, so find one that fits your timeline and budget. It doesn’t have to be in Ketchikan.
Where to Stay in Ketchikan
I will say that Ketchikan has some cute inn options directly downtown like the Inn at Creek Street or the Gilmore Hotel. These are going to be on the pricier side of things, but they’re very special and how cool to wake up just off Creek Street and go for a stroll before cruise passengers arrive each day. Also downtown is the Cape Fox Lodge on the hill, which has a neat funicular to take guests up the hill.
The Landing Hotel just outside of downtown is very near both the Alaska Marine Highway terminal and the ferry to the airport. They also provide a free shuttle to downtown and the airport, so that’s a big win if you don’t want to have a car.
Check out other options for where to stay in Ketchikan here:
Where to Eat in Ketchikan
There’s no shortage of great food in Ketchikan, both right around the cruise terminals and all around town. You’ll easily be able to find fresh Dungeness crab, salmon, and local seafood spots around each corner. Our top picks for good food in Ketchikan include:
- The Alaska Fish House (looks touristy, is awesome)
- Annabelle’s Chowder House
- Heen Kahidi Dining Room at Cape Fox Lodge
- New York Cafe – great breakfast
- Alaska Crepe Co
- D’s Fish and Chip Shack (yes, at the cruise port, delicious)
- Portside Pub and Grill – located at the Landing Hotel
This gives you a broad selection to choose from, and you’ll easily find food to meet any dietary requirements most places. Enjoy!
How many days to spend in Ketchikan
For Ketchikan when you’re doing the Inside Passage independently, 3 or 4 days is recommended. If you are on a tight schedule, two full days will allow you the chance to enjoy the town and see some sights, but at least three days is best.
Juneau: Alaska’s Wild Capital
I love Juneau and I love how often we get to visit. Many cruise ships stop in Juneau, but it’s also the easiest destination in Southeast Alaska to visit on your own, either by flying in (JNU) or arriving via the Alaska Marine Highway System. And yes, Juneau is the capital of Alaska, so there are some unique things to do and see here. Juneau is extra interesting because it’s a capital city accessible only by air or sea, which no other state can lay claim to. It’s the summer capital and Anchorage is the winter one. Both cities are great, but they’re so different and each is wonderful to visit.
When I think of visiting Juneau, I think of things like eagles, glaciers, food trucks… If a hipster designed an Alaskan city, Juneau would be it, and not just because of the food trucks. It’s actually our kids’ favorite city to visit too, so that says something since it’s appealing to adults and kids alike. Famous for the Mendenhall Glacier and Tahku the humpback whale, Juneau is such a fun place to explore and enjoy the vibes. It’s very different from anywhere else in the Inside Passage.
Best Things to do in Juneau
I think Juneau is a great home base to have some big adventures from. It’s a good town to just enjoy exploring on foot and hanging out, but it’s also wonderful for experiencing some awesome Alaskan adventure. Visiting Juneau without a cruise ship schedule means that you can be off exploring all day, either independently or as part of a tour. It’s a solid launch point for some of the highlights of the Inside Passage, including day trips up to Gustavus and Glacier Bay National Park.
For a fun, easy visit to Juneau without a cruise ship, plan to have a big adventure day, a fun tour day, and a lollygag around town day. You can even spend half a day just watching the seaplanes if you’re so inclined. You’ll love it here and there’s always plenty of things to do in Juneau.
- Mendenhall Glacier in Tongass National Forest – hike to Nugget falls, kayak or canoe on the lake, watch salmon spawning in the stream (seasonal). Also visit the DIPAC Macaulay Salmon Hatchery or try shore fishing (Chum Fun Charters is great!).
- Whale watching in Stephens Passage (humpback hotspot) or boat tour to Tracy Arm for tidewater glaciers. Pro tip: Book whale watching and Glacier Bay tours well in advance for summer
- Sightseeing around Juneau -visit the Alaska State Museum, check out the art and stories at Sealaska Heritage Center, walk the waterfront to see all the totem poles and Tahku the whale, wander the streets and staircases of Juneau to Cope Park. For a unique historic tour, check out the Treadwell Mine (an AR supplemented tour)
- Do the Mount Roberts Goldbelt Tramway and alpine hiking back down (half a day)
- Glacier Bay National Park day trips (accessible by Alaska Seaplanes or ferry from Juneau) OR try Glacier Pack Rafting – you still get the seaplane and glaciers
- Craft brewery and food truck scene – Juneau has a surprisingly robust local beer culture and an entire food truck park downtown.
Where to Stay in Juneau
Despite being the Alaska state capital, there aren’t a ton of downtown hotels or Airbnbs. There are a few historic options, and then further from the downtown area you’ll find some more places to stay. Juneau is a good town to have a car in so you can explore a bit, so if you’re renting one or bringing your own on the Alaska Marine Highway System, booking a place to stay near the airport, up in Auke Bay or in the Mendenhall Valley are good options.
Downtown, we’ve stayed at the Baranoff Hotel several times (read about it here), and then there’s also the historic Alaskan Hotel or the Silverbow Inn, and a few others. Check out other options for where to stay in Juneau here:
Where to Eat in Juneau
Like with any place in Southeast Alaska, you’ll have some great options for local seafood, farm-to-table, and waterfront dining. Juneau is fun to visit independently because you get more of a chance to explore food beyond downtown. Having said that, there are some great picks downtown that we love.
- In Bocca al Lupo (owned by the coolest guy)
- Hangar on the Wharf
- Crystal Saloon – awesome bread bowl
- Sandpiper Cafe
- Pucker Wilson’s
- Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos
- Red Dog Saloon – touristy but great
- Devil’s Club Brewing Co
- Island Pub Pizza – across the bridge in Douglass
- Alaskan Brewing Co – just for the solid tourist experience
How many days to spend in Juneau
Because you have the freedom of exploring the Inside Passage on your own, I’d recommend 3 or 4 days in Juneau (check out our Juneau 3-day itinerary) and then enjoying the journey up to your next stop in Southeast Alaska: Haines. If you’re planning on fishing and hiking a lot while you’re here, you can easily spend 5 days in Juneau and still not be ready to leave, so design your itinerary however works best for your interests.
Haines: The Hidden Gem at the End of the Road
I know that we’re talking about doing the Inside Passage without a cruise ship and exploring independently, but why are we talking about the “End of the Road?” Simply put, if you’ve been driving from Anchorage or across Canada, you can turn south onto the Haines Highway and it ends here in town. It’s the end of the road. Or Haines is where the road begins and the crowds end. Haines is a gateway to the Yukon, so you can consider extending your trip north by road and seeing the Klondike and most amazing mountains and wildlife.
Road trippers can disembark in Haines to access the road system in the Yukon if you’ve been traveling with your own vehicle on the Alaska Marine Highway, and then connect with the Alaska Highway to visit Fairbanks or South Central AK. But also, just ending your Inside Passage trip here in Haines is great too. The vibe is small, artistic, very independent, far fewer tourists than other SE Alaska towns, and the scenery is epic.
Getting here from Juneau was beautiful on the water, and you’ll need to do that trip in reverse back to JNU if you’re not turning this adventure into a road trip.
Best Things to do in Haines
For being such a small town, Haines is really fun and has lots to do if you’re outdoorsy. Not that there aren’t some cool museums in Haines, but the area truly shines for the wildlife and recreation. And you don’t even have to be a wildly active person to enjoy a lot of the outdoor activities. Haines is for everyone and I’ve never met somebody who’s been and didn’t love it.
Now, we’ve got plenty of fun things to do in Haines, so do what you can with the time that you’ve got and you’ll have a blast. PS: July is when the Southeast Alaska State Fair happens in Haines, and it’s really fun; perhaps the most Alaskan event you’ll get to experience besides the Fur Rondy in Anchorage. Visiting the Inside Passage independently gives you the freedom to enjoy a whole of activities you might not normally get to from a cruise ship.
- Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve – this is where the largest concentration of bald eagles in the world happens; best seen from the river on a scenic float trip
- Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Site – we love being here at sunset for bear watching and then in the morning and mid-day for kayaking on Chilkoot Lake; fun fishing spots too!
- Mountain biking and hiking in the Chilkat Range, including an easy day trip into Chilkat State Park
- Fort William H. Seward National Historic Landmark district – it’s nice to walk around and check out the random shops, galleries and the Port Chilkoot Distillery
- Museums and sights in downtown – the Haines Sheldon Museum has some of the best exhibits of Tlingit art and history, and the Hammer Museum is a total fascinating stop full of every type of hammer you can imagine
Where to Stay in Haines
Haines isn’t full of grand lodges or chain hotels, but it’s very humble and has just a few options for where to stay. For a historic inn, the Hotel Halsingland is cool and located in Fort William Henry Seward, and then the Captain’s Choice Motel is quiet and nice (read all about it here). There is one chain hotel in Haines, which is the Aspen Suites Hotel. Beyond these, all of the options for where to stay in Haines are either vacation rentals or small B&Bs.
Nearby Skagway has more hotel options, as it’s a bigger cruise port with many more visitors than Haines. Don’t be fooled by hotel listings that say that a Skagway stay is just 15 miles from downtown Haines: it’s a boat ride on the Alaska Fjordlines or Alaska Marine Highway, or it’s a 7 hour drive crossing through British Columbia and the Yukon.
Check out Haines stay options here:
Where to Eat in Haines
Haines keeps it low key with dining, but there are some tasty spot. We may have had woodfired pizza on several occasions… I mentioned the Southeast Alaska State Fair previously, and if you get to visit Haines during the fair, that’s where you’ll find some really great stuff, including fry bread tacos, salmon with kelp, smoked salmon everything, and all your favorite fair foods. In the meantime, here are our picks for where to eat in Haines:
- Alpenglow Pizza for woodfired pizzas and more
- Bamboo Room for a vintage diner
- Taste of Deishu, which is tribally owned and has the best fish and chips
- Mile 33 Roadhouse for an iconic Alaskan meal
- Lighthouse Restaurant for seafood and salads
- Alaska Bear Bread for baked goods and fry bread
- Deer Heart AK for farm to table meals
How Many Days to Spend in Haines
I would say that 2-3 days minimum is needed to really enjoy Haines; many travelers stay longer either because that’s how the Alaska Marine Highway System schedule is or because they have their own vehicle and are continuing a road trip up to the Interior of Alaska or the Yukon. If you want to do and see everything, including some hiking and fishing, I think 4-5 days in Haines is perfect, but I know we don’t all have the luxury of that much time. A 2-3 day stay will allow you to leave happy and you’ll have gotten to experience this wonderful town differently than most cruise guests ever will. That’s the joy of traveling the Inside Passage independently!
Practical Planning Tips for Independent SE Alaska Travel
The best time to go to Southeast Alaska is definitely in the summer. Summer season runs late May to mid-September, with June and July typically offering the best weather, but then also the most tourists. Since we’re talking about the Inside Passage on your own NOT on a cruise ship, you’ll still have plenty of time with very few people around as the cruise ships leave each afternoon or early evening and the towns quiet down a lot.
If you’re thinking about visiting before peak season begins, you’ll still have a lovely time, but the weather may be extra wet, you may still have some snow up in Haines, and most tourism businesses won’t be open yet. So, depending on your travel and activity style, an off-season visit may work well for you.
Packing essentials: layers, waterproof everything, hiking boots
Not to jinx our family into having icky weather on our visits to the Inside Passage, but we’ve always been exceptionally lucky when it comes to scoring sunshine and blue skies. Yes, we’ve had a few rainy days, but we don’t have the soaking wet stories other people end their trips with. You can be prepared for the bad weather though with some thoughtful packing and realistic expectations.
Here’s our basic packing list for traveling through Southeast Alaska in the summer:
- Pants and shorts – the weather may vary greatly
- Long and short sleeve shirts – think about this as what you’ll see if photos on nice days
- Base layer – although it may be warm, a merino wool layer can be great on damp days
- Rain jacket – yes, something that is actually waterproof
- Hiking boots or waterproof shoes – sometimes we even have Xtra Tuff boots (galoshes)
- Walking sandals / close toed sandals – Keens or Tevas are great
- Regular and wool socks – think about being active AND having dry feet
- Hats – baseball and stocking caps both come in handy
- Mosquito gear – while often the mosquitoes aren’t bad, there are places that you’ll want full protection, such as by a lake at sunset
If you pack wisely, you’ll be comfortable and not have wet moments of misery. And yes, a mosquito jacket really does come in handy in certain moments.
Budget breakdown: ferry costs, lodging, food, activities
So how much does it cost to do all of this and have an epic adventure traveling without a cruise ship through the Inside Passage? I wish I could say it was cheap, but it’s not. Alaska is a very costly place, both as a travel destination and when you live here. Here is a sample budget for costs, and then you can do that math to see what you’ll likely spend for the number of days you will be there. This budget is based on double occupancy, two people doing the dining and activities together.
Below you can see the breakdown of costs, and these can be adjusted based on what you’ll actually be doing. If you’re bringing your own car, then you don’t need a rental car. If you don’t want to do a flightseeing trip of any kind, you won’t have that cost…
| Item / Activity | Cost Per Person | How Many | Subtotal | Total |
| Transportation | ||||
| AK Marine Highway Ketickan -> Juneau | 60 | 2 | 120 | 120 |
| AK Marine Highway Juneau -> Haines | 60 | 2 | 120 | 240 |
| AK Marine Highway add CAR Ket -> JNU | 126 | 1 | 126 | 366 |
| AK Marine Highway add CAR JNU -> HAI | 126 | 1 | 126 | 492 |
| Alaska Fjordlines Passage JNU -> HAI or back | 165 | 2 | 330 | 822 |
| Flightseeing | 400 | 2 | 800 | 1622 |
| Activities | ||||
| Kayaking tour | 120 | 2 | 240 | 240 |
| Wildlife tour | 140 | 2 | 280 | 520 |
| Guided Fishing | 300 | 2 | 600 | 1120 |
| Rafting | 110 | 2 | 220 | 1340 |
| Big Adventure | 600 | 2 | 1200 | 2540 |
| Dining for 9 days | ||||
| Breakfast | 40 | 9 | 360 | 360 |
| Lunch | 60 | 9 | 540 | 900 |
| Dinner | 70 | 9 | 630 | 1530 |
| Snacks | 15 | 9 | 135 | 1665 |
| Lodging | ||||
| Ketchikan per night | 250 | 3 | 750 | 750 |
| Juneau per night | 280 | 3 | 840 | 1590 |
| Haines per night | 220 | 3 | 660 | 2250 |
| Rental Car | ||||
| Ketchikan per day | 120 | 1 | 120 | 120 |
| Juneau per day | 85 | 1 | 85 | 205 |
| Haines per day | 220 | 2 | 440 | 645 |
| Grand total: | 8722 |
Do I need Travel Insurance for Alaska?
A lot of people get travel insurance, but we don’t. We have gotten it many times in the past and have had to request to use it three times… each was denied despite our understanding of what’s covered and providing proper documentation. Since then, we have not gotten travel insurance for anything and do not recommend it to others. It’s my educated opinion from years of travel and attempting to use it when needed that it is a scam, like most insurances in the USA.
Having said that, if you’re concerned about extreme situations or life-flight, that’s something you can set up in advance, but Alaska is a part of the USA and your health coverage typically applies the same in one-off situations out of state as it does in your home state. **I am not a medical or health insurance professional and only speak from my own personal experiences.
Wildlife Safety Basics
Wildlife is one of the huge draws of visiting Southeast Alaska and doing the Inside Passage Independently. Each destination has its own hotspots where you’ll likely see different animals, but then also, Alaska still has enough wild elements to it that you may just happen to see a black bear wander through downtown Juneau or something.
When it comes to bear safety, remember that they don’t want to be petted. Bears may seem brave and bold and cute, but they are still dangerous. Give them LOTS of space and never approach them. If you see them off the road, stay near your vehicle and don’t get distracted. If you see a bear cub, remember that there’s likely a mama bear nearby. Also, if you’re going to have bear spray with you, know how to use it safely!
When it comes to marine mammals, distance is again the key to safety. Most likely you’ll see humpback and orca whales from large boats, but if you’re sea kayaking, there is also a good chance you may see them from the water. Listen to your guide and keep a safe distance. Always pay attention to your surroundings and listen for whale blowholes.
Seals and sea lions are also something to consider. If you’re on a beach or in a kayak, you may end up very close to some of these guys, or sea otters too. They can be playful and may want to check you out, but do not try to touch them. They all have teeth that are great at ripping through fish and flesh. Stay with your group and raft together if you’re on the water.
Basic 10-Day Independent Southeast Alaska Itinerary
Here is a very basic 10 day itinerary for exploring Southeast Alaska independently of a cruise ship. You can change the number of days in each location depending on how you’re getting between islands (yes, Ketchikan and Juneau or both on islands, and Haines might as well be).
- Day 1 and 2: Fly into Ketchikan and explore
- Day 3: Misty Fiords adventure or fishing charter
- Day 3 or 4: Ferry to Juneau (overnight ferry likely or fly)
- Day 5 – 7: Juneau to explore glaciers, whales, and maybe a Glacier Bay day trip
- Day 7 or 8: Ferry or Alaska Fjordlines to Haines
- Day 9 and 10: explore Haines for eagles, hiking, and enjoying wildlife
- Day 10 or whenever you’re ready: boat back to Juneau to depart Alaska or head to Anchorage
There’s enough flexibility with independent travel in Southeast Alaska that you can be speedy or take your time and still have a wonderful adventure.
If you have any questions about traveling the Inside Passage on your own without being a part of a cruise ship, or if you need more recommendations for the individual destinations, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to share more and help you plan an amazing Alaska trip!
